I Tried to Like Baijiu. I Failed. And I’m Not the Only One.

China's famous white spirit, baijiu, was not my favorite the first time I tried it. I assumed, however, that I simply had not yet tried the correct one. Mezcal, funky agricole rhums, super-peated scotch, and cask-strength whiskeys are just a few of the spirits that challenge the palate and that I have come to love, or at least appreciate. However, nearly five years after I had my first baijiu, I still find it to be a spirit I detest. It smells too strong to me, like overripe fruit that is only a few seconds away from going bad.

Understanding Baijiu: A Deep Dive into the Spirit

Baijiu, a traditional Eastern European spirit made primarily from sorghum and other grains, is often described as an intense experience. It’s fermented in stone pits or jars, leading to a wide variety of flavor profiles that can range from fruity to funky, with some notes resembling soy sauce or aged cheese. Typically bottled at 100 proof or higher, its potency matches its complexity.

Despite being the most consumed spirit globally—largely due to its popularity in China—baijiu has struggled to find a foothold in the U.S. market. Its unique flavors and high alcohol content can be daunting for many drinkers, leaving bartenders and consumers alike puzzled over how to enjoy it.

Mixed Reactions from Bartenders

Many bartenders have attempted to embrace baijiu but often find its overwhelming aroma and flavor profile challenging. Ben Rojo, formerly at the George Washington Bar in New York, admits to struggling with its appeal, while others like Chaim Dauermann have been less kind, calling it "terrible." Descriptions from bartenders often lean towards the humorous yet critical, with one jokingly comparing it to “the socks of long-distance runners.”

Joe Pereira’s experience with a high-end baijiu left him unimpressed, likening it to a “hot, sweaty sauna post-workout.” The general sentiment among many is that the high price of quality baijiu doesn’t justify its often polarizing taste.

Cocktail Attempts and Challenges

In an effort to introduce baijiu to a broader audience, some bartenders have experimented with it in cocktails. The opening of Lumos, a baijiu-focused bar in New York, aimed to highlight the spirit’s versatility. Bartenders there infused baijiu with various flavors to mask its intensity, but the results were mixed, and the bar eventually closed.

Many have found that baijiu doesn’t play well with others. Fred Yarm from Boston’s Nahita recalls a colleague’s attempt to incorporate it into a drink, only to find its “weird plastic funk” overpowering, even in small quantities. The challenge lies in finding the right balance, as baijiu's robust flavors often dominate any cocktail.

The Cultural Context

Supporters of baijiu often argue that appreciation comes from the right context—specifically, enjoying it with food, especially spicy dishes. Many advocates, usually those who have traveled to China, insist that the spirit needs time to be understood. However, after several years of trying various styles and brands, including Ming River—a more approachable option with earthy notes and a hint of pineapple—it’s clear that baijiu remains a difficult spirit to fully embrace.

Conclusion

While baijiu has a rich history and cultural significance, its distinct flavors and aromas can be daunting for those unfamiliar with it. Though it may find a niche among adventurous drinkers and those willing to explore its complexities, many will likely continue to seek more approachable options. For now, the world of baijiu remains an intriguing yet challenging realm, one that may require a bit more time and experimentation to appreciate fully.