Tejuino Is the Fermented Corn-Based Drink That Bartenders Are Embracing
Alex Valencia, the head bartender and co-owner of La Contenta, La Contenta Oeste, and the soon-to-open La Contenta Next Door in New York City, says that in Guadalajara, sipping a tejuino from a plastic bag is the American equivalent of sipping iced tea on a hot day. Tejuino, which is made from nixtamalized corn, is one of several fermented pre-Colombian Mexican drinks, along with pulque, an agave ferment, and tepache made from pineapple.
Tejuino is a traditional Mexican drink with deep cultural roots, primarily found in the western states of Michoacán, Jalisco, Colima, Nayarit, and Sinaloa. Each region has its own unique method of preparation, contributing to the beverage's rich diversity. Tejuino is usually prepared by boiling piloncillo (a form of unrefined cane sugar) in water, mixing masa (corn dough) with more water, and then combining the two liquids before briefly cooking them. This mixture is then fermented for two to three days, yielding a drink with nominal alcohol content of less than 2%.
Growing up in Mexico, many, like Valencia, enjoyed tejuino served over ice with hot sauce, lime, and a scoop of nieves de limon (lime sorbet). The combination of corn, lactic fermentation, rich syrup, spice, and acidity creates a complex flavor profile that some bartenders in the U.S. are just beginning to explore.
The Cultural Significance of TejuinoTejuino is more than just a drink; it represents a rich cultural heritage. Cliseria “Clio” Padilla-Flores, a bar manager in Sarasota, Florida, discovered tejuino through a friend's trip to Mexico. Initially unfamiliar with this "fermented corn flour thing," she was intrigued and began experimenting with it, adding tamarind paste and cinnamon to create a unique cocktail. Her tejuino-mezcal drink, named Masa Dulce, has since become a bestseller at her restaurant, showcasing how traditional beverages can be reimagined in contemporary settings.
Rediscovering Tejuino: Personal JourneysIrving Gonzalez, also from Aguascalientes, recalls his childhood experiences with tejuino, which he initially disliked for its vinegar-like taste. After bartending in Tijuana and California, he returned to tejuino, finding new inspirations in its texture and flavor. His cocktail, Am I Rum, cleverly integrates tejuino with local spirits and other ingredients, showcasing the versatility of this traditional drink.
Similarly, Andrew Booth of Bruto in Denver started experimenting with tejuino during the pandemic. Using leftover masa from his restaurant, he created a tejuino that features pineapple skins to enhance fermentation. His innovative approach has led to serving tejuino in various cocktails, demonstrating its adaptability and appeal in modern mixology.
Crafting Your Own TejuinoThere are countless ways to make tejuino, allowing for individual creativity. Padilla-Flores uses a thick blend of maseca and water, while Gonzalez prefers un-nixtamalized corn and a longer fermentation process. Valencia's partner, Luis Arce Mota, adds lemon juice to enhance the flavor profile, creating a drink with a gelatin-like consistency.
Tejuino can serve as a base for cocktails or be enjoyed on its own, inviting experimentation and personalization. Valencia is currently developing tejuino-based cocktails for his upcoming project, La Contenta Next Door, focusing on the culinary traditions of Mexico’s Pacific coast. He is dedicated to preserving traditional methods while adapting them for contemporary bar culture.
Conclusion: A Drink Worth ExploringAs Valencia notes, the cultural heritage surrounding tejuino is at risk of being lost as younger generations become less familiar with traditional practices. However, with passionate bartenders like Valencia, Padilla-Flores, and Gonzalez embracing tejuino, this beverage is poised for a renaissance.
Tejuino offers an exciting opportunity to connect with Mexican culture through taste, inviting everyone to enjoy its unique flavors. As you explore this traditional drink, consider how you can make it your own and contribute to the rich narrative of Mexican culinary heritage. Whether enjoyed in its classic form or reimagined in creative cocktails, tejuino is a drink that deserves a place in the modern beverage landscape.
